“Is this the way?” asked my sister when we briefly lost track of the yellow arrows. Wherever you are, that is the way — to enlightenment or joy or whatever the goal. It isn’t usually a straight line…at least not for me…and losing the path sometimes is part of the process.
We left in the dark. In a drizzle. (This may sound grim but really wasn’t.) After being humbled yesterday by the reality of our age showing up as sore joints, we consciously took it easier. I’ve been walking in silence so far, but this afternoon began to listen to one of several audiobooks I took along. “Walking With Sam” is the true tale of a man and his teenaged son, who also went through many phases while doing this walk.
Didn’t Saint Francis say something like, “It will be solved by walking?” Whatever “it” is. Today, our plan was just over nine miles but I walked at least 10 by missing a few arrows. The journey continues below…
It was still dark when we left our lodgings on the 2nd floor of this building and fortified ourselves with coffee…… before setting off, taking a moment first for a quick selfie.We crossed over a bridge…… and rejoined the route in the town of Neda. ( We spent last night in a neighboring town.)Waterfowl greeted us along the waterfront in the gray morning.I was struck by the variety of stones under foot, which reminded me of my attempt to work with stones at my camp in far-north Michigan.I was also struck by the small farms mixed with regular homes within the towns and cities. I heard a cow bellow as I passed this tractor in its stone shed.These sheep grazed just a block from a supermarket.Two white goats shared the path with Maria and Ginny.Another sign of a rural environment amidst the urban, this…the original way to wash clothes. I’ve seen them in metal but never in stone.And a cow milker, of all things, by itself in a roadside window. At least I think that’s what it is. My siblings and I learned to milk cows at Dad’s childhood farm. I remember doing it by hand. Today’s terrain was a lot of up and down. As we climbed hills, views revealed themselves…… and kept revealing.Sometimes we found the yellow markers on gorgeous private gates…… and sometimes on weather-beaten poles.This more typical marker was decorated by a shoe. I thought perhaps someone left it there, continuing to hike with only one shoe — maybe to prove fortitude? But it was an appeal for donations for someone with cancer. A note was tucked under the shoe’s tongue.Because it’s so late in the season, we don’t encounter many other pilgrims, but this group of four passed us.Even though it’s late in the season, some locals are still putting out pilgrim support, such as this cooler of water bottles and a container of local pears. “Buen camino” is the typical greeting from locals as we pass by them.The images of shells continue…… sometimes accompanying a water bottle filling station. The shell is a recognizable symbol of pilgrims, and we all carry one. Supposedly, a shell was used by early pilgrims as a vessel for eating and drinking.This roadside stop featured a large stone tub meant for washing clothes – for those who carry everything with them. We are not. Our luggage is transported from lodging to lodging for a modest cost. We carry only our day packs.More roadside reminders that Hallowe’en approaches.This roadside display covered the entire side of a building and refers to “stars of the camino.” I’m guessing this man contributed substantially to some infrastructure or other that supports pilgrims. Many of these small towns gain from the tourism.Maybe he was a leader of the association mentioned on this plaque.As we approached today’s destination, we crossed a bridge…… and again saw evidence of the tide here. These are the first recreational boats I’ve seen, reminding me of the big tides in Georgia during The Great Loop.The first good view of Pontedeume…… and that very old castle, or tower anyway, alongside modern buildings.Our lodging for tonight. (We hung our washed socks inside that green balcony.) Tomorrow is our longest walk, more than 12 miles. Today, we walked more slowly and used walking sticks for extra support. I’m not worried about tomorrow, but hoping to get a good night’s sleep. Here in Europe, towns reawaken at 8 p m. and stay lively until past midnight. So our adjustments continue… more to follow!Ending this post with a photo from yesterday, sent to me by our leader Maria. I’m kneeling here to take a close-up of the marsh. Ginny, who is almost 80 (gasp from us both when we remember that), mentioned today that she knows someone who will celebrate her 80th birthday by walking 500 miles on El Camino. I think 70ish miles is also a big accomplishment! (For both her and me.) There’s always someone who does more than us, isn’t there? And less. It’s good to be inspired by others, as long as it’s not a comparison. We are all exactly where we are meant to be.
I like how you differentiate between inspiration and comparison. One touches our spirits and opens possibilities, the other almost always includes judging for better or worse. I prefer the former!
For Many Moons 
Your journey to understanding continues. We’re loving your commentary. Pat and Pete
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Thank you. I’m glad you are reading it. I feel healing happening. Hello from Ginny.
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I like how you differentiate between inspiration and comparison.
One touches our spirits and opens possibilities, the other almost always includes judging for better or worse. I prefer the former!
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