Adriatic by E-Bike – Pt 2

by marjasisu, posted in Reflections

Croatia on the Adriatic Sea is one of the most interesting countries in the world. Forged in war, it shares borders with five countries. Its older citizens have strong memories of the latest war, in the 1990s, and remember America’s role in helping end it. (We remain close military and economic allies.) Its younger citizens think it’s time to “get over it.”

When travelling in another country, it’s always interesting to learn its history–especially when it intersects with our own–and to see the same generational differences all over the world. It’s even more interesting when you combine this kind of education with a unique way of touring. We did it primarily by bicycle. Here’s Pt. 2 of my recent trip to Croatia, in photos and captions. What you see here is beauty and fun, disguising the troubled past of this gorgeous place.  (Recommended: “Girl At War,” historical fiction, 2016.)

I’ve seen natural beauty all over, in more than 30 countries. I grew up in spectacular beauty on Lake Superior. Even so, Croatia’s coastline and islands knocked my socks off. Viewing it by bicycle brought it closer–and doing it on an E-Bike was even better, since I wasn’t distracted by the physical exertion of “getting to the top.” I did huff-and-puff some, since aerobic exercise was one goal. (We sometimes forget that our heart and lungs need exercise too.) But taking in the views was the key goal. We stopped often to do just that.
Our group of 24, all but two from the U.S., became very friendly during our week on board together. I even learned everyone’s name by the time I left.
We dined on board nearly every evening so had plenty of time to get to know each other. Most were couples, and some traveled in groups of three or four.
Vermont Bicycling Tours (VBT) supplied us not just with the bicycles but also helmets, bike bags and water bottles. I brought my own gel seat along, since my tush likes a soft landing. 😉 E-bikes are heavy, and it took some time to adjust.
As we rode, we passed each other often (some riders using the motor more often than others) and sometimes ended up at the same overlook together.
VBT arranged several interesting stops along our path, including a visit to a donkey farm…
…and a lunch featuring a local dish that’s slow-roasted over coals for hours.
As a nature-lover, I prefer this kinds of view….
..but the towns were memorable too, especially Hvar Town on the island of Hvar. This photo was taken after climbing up to a medieval fort….
…where ancient guns now play a photogenic role rather than a military one. This is the site of an ancient Illyrian settlement dating from before 500 BC. 
Hvar Town is awash with tourists during the day but the harbor is calm at night. (While on The Great Loop, I often stayed up at night while the marina was asleep. To take in “the quiet.”)
Speaking of calm…when the winds laid down, the captain allowed me to take out the inflatable paddle board. (You know me! Once I learned there’s a SUP on board, I begged to use it.)
I took this photo during our last ride of the trip. (No, I didn’t go see the camp!) The Croatian language uses the Latin alphabet while its eastern neighbors also use the Cyrillic.
Our last ride ended in the picturesque town of Postira. After leaving our bikes for the last time, we walked along the beach to our boat on the opposite side of the harbor, many of my biking mates still sporting bright-yellow biking jackets.
In a nod to my Navy past, I saluted my good-bye to a great excursion. The statue facing out to sea was probably made of stone taken on this very island. We visited the stone-cutting school before starting our ride. Fascinating trade, requiring both skill and patience!
Our bike-and-boat tour ended in Dubrovnik, where we disembarked to board a bus. Our boat was again tied up to other boats in the busy harbor, so our crew had to haul our luggage across two decks in order to get it ashore. Some luggage was weighed down with souvenirs of olive oil and stone, so the crew won their tips that day!
During the bus ride to our hotel, we paused at this bridge, memorable for its story. Croatia’s coastline is interrupted by a narrow piece of land belonging to Bosnia, which is otherwise landlocked. (The story behind that goes way back, like much of Croatian history.) This bridge was opened in 2022, bypassing a time-consuming set of border crossings.
My thanks to my roommate and 22 other biking mates, the captain and crew of the boat, and two superb travel guides for a great trip! Separate post about fabulous Dubrovnik and tiny Montenegro to come. Below, a toss of facts about Croatia…
  • Part of the former Yugoslavia, was once under Communist rule
  • During WWII, a puppet state of Nazi Germany and Fascist Italy
  • Primarily Roman Catholic
  • Once included Bosnia, part of the Ottoman Empire, which remains primarily Muslim
  • The Turks stopped at the Croatia border, so some call it “the threshold of Christianity”
  • 2nd-largest per-capita emigration rate in the world, after Ireland
  • Most charter boats in the world, per-capita (and with 1,000+ islands, no wonder)
  • Slavic language, somewhat similar to Slovakian, Polish and Russian
  • Most families that are able keep their own vineyard and olive grove
  • Once renowned for agriculture (especially olives) and shipbuilding, economy now based on service sector and tourism

4 thoughts on “Adriatic by E-Bike – Pt 2”

  1. What a great trip, Mary. Thanks for taking us along. Such a lovely place and so much history there. The reach of the Ottoman Enpire in its time was vast and still influential today. I live the oic of you and the donkey 🫏.

    Have a safe trip home!

    Teri

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  2. Great book recommendation, generalizable. It’s always a good idea to read something about a new destination before you go. I read John Brown’s Body before visiting the Manassas battlefield.

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