I’ve camped around bears and beavers and tiny biting things, but never wild horses — until this week. Wow. They may be wild, but they sure are bold.
Chincoteague Island is more known for wild horses because of the book (“Misty of Chincoteague”) and its “pony swim.” (A pony is just a smaller version of a horse.) But Assateague Island is a better camping destination, and that was my goal. Camping. In a tent, not an RV. With the sound of ocean waves lulling me to sleep. So Assateague it was.
I figured the wild ponies would be an extra benefit, seen from afar. Was I ever wrong.
The story about camping among wild horses at Assateague, in photos and captions below…
Assateague and Chincateague are adjacent islands about a three-hour drive from Washington D.C. on the Atlantic Ocean. Assateague has two campgrounds; the national lakeshore and the state park. My neighbors and I chose the park.
Immediately upon entering the park, I saw a horse near the fence that protects the dunes and separates the campground from the seashore. I didn’t realize it would be just the first of many (many!) photo ops.
I set up a few lots away from my neighbors. This is the tent I use for fair weather. It’s a true “pop-up” that flattens into a large disc (requiring some skilled twisting), with lots of windows for airflow and moon-viewing.
Before long, my neighbors texted: “The horses are in our campsite!” They hadn’t yet learned that if you have ANY food out while the horses walk through, they will come right in and help themselves. (We’re warned to stay away from them but not to lock up food, even mid-meal.) This mare ate my neighbors’ chips and hotdog buns, which they had left near the table while bolting to a distance. The foal observed and learned.
Before long, they visited my tent site. Since I had no food items out, they nibbled the grass. Note the white door under the picnic table, meant to secure food from curious horses.
Our camping loop was the territory of five adults and the foal. (The adjacent loop had a different “resident herd.”) The herd came through twice a day — and also at night, as you will see — and boldly approached both vehicles and tents. At times, it was hard to keep the designated 40 feet away!
The mare and her foal were a star attraction. All babies are cute, right?
The foal was never far from her mother.
She nursed every 15 minutes, it seemed…
…and then would crash for a short post-meal nap. Right there in the campground.
This beautiful chestnut visited my tent site regularly…
…and was apparently bonded with this other chestnut with a gorgeous mane.
This pair woke me up both nights, huffing and nibbling near my tent. (I actually shouted the 2nd night, when one of them snorted and brushed against my tent. It startled me! 😉 )
They came every morning and evening, creating a backdrop for my campfire.
But this girl stole the show, trying to enter the tent next door to me. The occupants left early, undoubtedly unnerved by the boldness of the horses.
The horses are the star attraction at Assateague, but the ocean is next, just beyond the fences. It’s close enough to the campsite to hear the swells at night.
One fisherman was present. I didn’t see him catch anything.
This horse-shoe crab shell was empty, but my neighbors saw a live one.
I did take a dip (without the hat.) The water was warm, by my northern standards.
A more common camping tradition is the campfire — not my best effort, as the blaze was wimpy, but enough to warm my prepared meals and enjoy the glow.
Another attraction of Assateague is the picturesque salt marshes.
Three short trails feature well-built boardwalks…
…and some gorgeous forest…
…and an education about the varied ecosystems here.
Signs help guide the uninitiated: “Look listen, smell”…
…and “looking” reaped this reward, spied from atop a boardwalk. Is that two crabs, co-creating??
Another surprise: the green (immature) cones of the loblolly pine. I’d never seen green ones. Maybe I just wasn’t looking.
The signage reminded us of the complexity of brackish areas like this, where fresh and salt water mix. Fresh water floats on top….
…which is probably one reason the horses are often in the marshes. (This is the view I expected to see at Assateague. They do look more — well, “wild” — out there than in our campsite.)
As we left the campground and seashore, this horse alongside the highway reminded us that these are the real “residents” of this tourist-y place. They’ve adjusted to human presence and even take advantage of it. But they aren’t ready to be saddled. May their wild nature survive the onslaught of human curiosity. Including mine!
A few camping tips from someone who’s camped for decades and tried many kinds of mattresses and cots. This cot worked great! Sturdy and comfy with a mattress on top. (Amazon.)
If you like to read while camping (and have working hips), I recommend the low camp chair that allows you to stretch out your legs. And a beach mat to protect against ants. Now, get out there! Explore nature! (Even if surrounded by about a hundred other campers.) If you’re looking at Assateague Island, I recommend the state park over the national lakeshore, which you can then explore by car. It was a memorable camp-out, from someone who’s done many. I plan to return.
For Many Moons 
Sounds just lovely. Thank you for sharing it with us. Great pictures as always. Jan Murray
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Thanks jan. Always nice to see your name pop up here.
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We’ve camped at Caprock Canyons State Park in Texas, where bison are liable to amble through your campsite.
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