We did it in 12 days. It’s wasn’t The Great Loop – but it was a loop, and it was great!
The Lake Superior Circle Tour is “a thing” among northerners…to drive the 1,300 miles around the biggest, coldest and deepest lake in the world. I grew up on this lake, and saw “Circle Tour” signs all over, but never did it. Until now. Here’s Part 1, covering the first half until we reached about due north of Camp Many Moons (as the crow flies, across the lake.) This was our gift to ourselves, in Jeff’s new camper and truck, as a break from the building process. Photos follow.
Roscoe didn’t look happy as we left and it was hard to leave him, wondering if he’ll be here when we get back. (He’s 15 and had a tough time in late summer. We haven’t left him since.) But he was well cared for and is doing fine.
The “circle tour” map. The light yellow is Canada. The green is Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, where I was raised and now spend half the year. The arrow is where we began. We drove counter-clockwise in hopes of intercepting Jeff’s brother who was going clockwise. The black dots represent where we stopped for 11 nights. (We expected to be gone longer but the weather turned inhospitable.)
First stop: a place we’ve been wanting to see for years. The Two-Hearted River, made famous by Ernest Hemingway, on the south shore, four hours from Camp Many Moons and Huron Bay. We took a windy dirt road to get there. This is the mouth, where the river empties into Gitchee Gumee (the native name for Lake Superior).
The rustic campground at Two-Hearted (no electricity or water) was just our style. I plan to come back here again, maybe with a canoe or paddle board.
I made my morning coffee on the picnic table. (The tiny “kitchen” of the camper isn’t big enough for two people to make coffee. Jeff’s version is way too weak for me!) This propane-fueled burner and little coffee pot went around The Great Loop with us and is still serving well.
After our first night, a stop at Tahquamenon Falls … the largest falls in Michigan, dropping about 50 feet. I last visited here as a pre-teen, so it was high time I returned. Many more (and bigger) waterfalls to come in Pt. 2!
After a forgettable night at Sault Ste. Marie (in an RV park), we met Jeff’s brother and his wife on night #3. A memorable one, on Agawa Bay. Wide sandy beach! Perfect sunset! Water warm enough to swim! (I did.) Our arrival in Canada began well.
We enjoyed a campfire long past sunset. None of us got rolling early the next morning.
After our reunion, Jeff and I headed north while his brother headed south. We began to see colors on the Canadian hillsides…as it turns out, the best in Canada. (There aren’t many maples on Lake Superior’s North Shore, as far as we could tell.)
Night #4: a roadside stop near Neys Provincial Park, on a high bluff overlooking Lake Superior. You’re supposed to request permission and pay a nominal fee before spending the night on “crown land” – Canada’s equivalent to “federal,” I guess? — but we weren’t sure this counted and couldn’t find the office. The fog descended just after we arrived, obscuring the lake. A big train went by regularly far below. Heavy truck traffic used the nearby Trans-Canada Highway all night. And I was figuring out how to share a table-bed with a cat. Not a restful night, but a memorable one!
The morning dawned clear, giving promise of views to come and the first of what would be many Mountain Ash. (We tried to plant one at Camp Many Moons. The deer chewed it up. š¦ )
We also woke to beer scat, loaded with berries from that Mountain Ash. All campgrounds in Canada hold beer-proof dumpsters, attesting to the risk. Being Yoopers, we’re used to bears being around but we don’t invite them close. š
Night #5: our favorite, Rainbow Falls Provincial Park. Our camper was practically on the water!
Sunset was glorious. I’m standing about 60 feet from the camper while taking this pic. I’ve been eager to visit Lake Superior’s famed North Shore and, wow! We live on the south shore, which is more settled even though most people think of the Upper Peninsula as remote. And it is, compared to most of the U.S. But this is even more so.
We lingered during sunset, getting used to seeing the lake south of us rather than north of us, as it always has been. Just as beautiful, just as big, just as inspiring.
We saw a lot more islands from the north shore of the lake than from the south shore. The sunset illuminated the islands and rocks in front of us…
…and at sunrise the next day, illuminated the seagulls perched on those rocks. I hated to leave this place and marked it as a “must-do-again.”
As we left Rainbow Falls, we began to see wide-open vistas as the road climbed and dropped. I couldn’t get my camera out fast enough to get the best photos, but this gives you an idea.
The bridge across the Nipigon River marked the northernmost point of our trip, and (we think) the spot closest to due-north of “home.” We planned to camp here but a strong wind sent us farther inland, to a family-run campground and a memorable canyon. Stay tuned for Pt 2!
Many people do the Circle Tour by motel, but we like to camp. (A truck camper makes it easy, compared to the tent camping I’m used to doing.) Jeff had the foresight to bring a saw along and we made use of wood we found lying around. A little fire is always nice.
Boo the Cat came along. Of course. She is the travelling cat! I hustled to get a last-minute vet appointment for her, to bring her vaccines up-to-date in preparation for border questions. No questions came, but it was good to do anyway. I kept her on a leash during every outing. You’ll see more of her in Pt. 2, to come.
Once again, I got to “almost experience” something I never will in person – I loved the moments! Thank you! I especially loved seeing Boo; she looks slightly perturbed to be on the leash, but I’m glad she got to go with you!
We also accompanied and kept our cat leashed when ever she went outside. Small creatures are attractive to eagles looking for an easy meal. Our ācampā is on the North Shore of Lake Superior.
Indeed they are. At “home” on the south side, she goes outside a lot…and we have a lot of eagles here. I do worry, and keep a “tailor” on her, and have watched her carefully over years. She seems quite aware of danger and lays low most of the time. But there is risk. I decided that quality of (her) life is more important than quantity, and exploring outdoors is a big part of her life. She’s a good hunter (helpful at keeping mice out of the camper) and comes when she’s called. So far, so good.
For Many Moons 
Once again, I got to “almost experience” something I never will in person – I loved the moments! Thank you! I especially loved seeing Boo; she looks slightly perturbed to be on the leash, but I’m glad she got to go with you!
LikeLiked by 1 person
š
LikeLike
Love this! Been to many parts up there, but never the north shore. Thanks for a wonderful vicarious adventure!
LikeLike
We also accompanied and kept our cat leashed when ever she went outside. Small creatures are attractive to eagles looking for an easy meal.
Our ācampā is on the North Shore of Lake Superior.
Looking forward to your part 2 blog entry.
LikeLike
Indeed they are. At “home” on the south side, she goes outside a lot…and we have a lot of eagles here. I do worry, and keep a “tailor” on her, and have watched her carefully over years. She seems quite aware of danger and lays low most of the time. But there is risk. I decided that quality of (her) life is more important than quantity, and exploring outdoors is a big part of her life. She’s a good hunter (helpful at keeping mice out of the camper) and comes when she’s called. So far, so good.
LikeLike